If I were feeling adventuresome, and not overly attatched to the piece, I might try TSP. (Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.) I'm not under any illusions about my own artwork, but everything I've ever given away or sold has been varnished with Golden MSM varnish, and come with an offer to attempt a strip and re-finish if something happens. But there's not much that will help it either, as far as I know. Though I have cleaned some of my own paintings with a Simple Green solution and a microfiber cloth when they were fully dried and cured, but still in process, before working on them.) As long as you don't damage the built up paint texture, or the substrate, there's not a lot that will hurt it. ( note: I'm not suggesting that you actually do this, unless you want to. My experience: You could literally scrub that painting with a nail brush and Simple Green. You can't take off a layer, and acrylics aren't soluble the way oils are. When it gets dusty or dirty, if it doesn't have a mineral spirit based varnish, there's nowhere to go. The problem is that for many years, it was thought that acrylic paintings didn't need a protective coat. Not much restoration work has been done on them. I've lost my source info, but what I remember is: Acrylic is a young medium. Specifically about long term issues and cleaning. Posted by furtive_jackanapes at 3:07 PM on SeptemĪs an acrylics enthusiast, and owner of many thriftshop paintings as well, I have done a bit of research about acrylic paintings. If the spot test goes well, proceed to the full-surface routine. Given the uncertainties, start with the weaker mineral spirits. Lastly: Everydayville's link goes to Winsor & Newton Artists' Picture Cleaner, a mineral spirits product meant for cleaning varnished oil paintings. Days later, varnish with a product meant for acrylics as the final step. Lay a solution-soaked cloth across it, wait four or five minutes, then remove the soaked cloth and carefully wipe the surface with a clean, lint-free cloth. The procedure: After spot testing, arrange the painting horizontally on a work surface in a well-ventilated area. Old dammar will also crack and chip, which could've caused the exposed "pure snow" areas. On the off chance the discoloration is due in part to ageing dammar varnish on acrylic, Winsor & Newton recommends its stronger distilled turpentine solvent for removal, though the Smithsonian's Museum Conservation Institute cautions: Traditional natural varnishes, such as dammar, will yellow in time and the solvent used in their removal will dissolve or soften the acrylic paint layer. Renault to Home & Garden (7 answers total) 1 user marked this as a favorite I have read this question about cleaning smoke from furniture, but things might be a bit different with cleaning a painting.Īny ideas of what I should be using to step up the cleaning power? posted by Capt. I am quite certain the painting was never varnished, that this is just years of tobacco smoke residue. This nicotine layer is pretty hard, almost like a shellac. For these early tests, I have used only Q-tips and a clean J-cloth, no actual brushes yet. I have tried a mild household lemon cleaner and water solution, and didn't get anywhere either. I have also tried a mild vinegar and water solution, which also didn't work. Of course, it's not just the snow which is more brown with nicotine - the whole thing is covered.įollowing my earlier question on a different painting, I have tried spit. The paint is quite thick and textured, and in some places the taller 'caps' in the waves of paint have broken off, exposing the original pure white colour of the snow.
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